Zealots of Za

Luciano's Pizza & Wings - Denver, CO

2007-05-19T17:15:00.001-06:00

1043 Broadway
Denver, CO 80202
303 446 2424 (phone 1)
303 446 2525 (phone 2)
303 446 2425 (fax)
http://www.lucianospizzaandwings.com/
Hours: Mon - Thu 11:00am -10:30pm, Fri - Sat 11:00am - 2:30am or later, Sun 11:00am -10:30pm

Styles of Pizza: traditional
Service: counter service, carry-out, delivery

Standout Tidbit: 18" & 26" sheet pizzas in addition to 16" & 12" round pies.

Review: Luciano’s is located on Broadway just 2 blocks south of the Denver Public Library and the Denver Art Museum. The restaurant is clean, and the exposed brick walls are decorated with framed Italian Art Deco posters. Even though there is enough seating for at least 20-30 patrons, our groups have been the only dine-in customers both times I have visited. Judging by the cavernous kitchen and its’ 4 big pizza ovens, I assume Luciano’s gets a large amount of delivery sales from the Capitol Hill and Golden Triangle neighborhoods, as well as a decent amount of foot traffic from the Broadway club-goers needing late night pie by the slice.

There are several specialty crusts on the menu, and we ordered a basic cheese pie with the garlic crust. The dough seems to be their standard offering with a special topping added to the outer rim/lip, as opposed to being incorporated inside the crust. It was, in fact, very garlic-y.

This thin-crust pie has a lot of thickness to it. Although the outer layer has a nice, slight crispness, the inner crust is very soft, doughy, and breadlike. The cheese was layered thick on top and looked to be just a smooth layer of glistening white-ness with only a hint of browning. It was so think, in fact, that when it came out of the oven, you may have been hard-pressed to see any sauce peeking through, until the pie is cut into slices. We found it to be quite gooey and stringy when separating a slice from the tray or taking a bite. As far as the flavor of the cheese, it was pleasant and mild without being overly salty or greasy.

Once the za cooled down enough to taste everything properly, we agreed that the sauce was our favorite part. (My brother and I RARELY agree on anything.) It was very flavorful and tomato-y without being too sweet or salty. The texture was quite smooth without being creamy.

The downside of this pie in my opinion (others have corroborated my impressions), is the sheer quantity of the cheese and sauce and thickness of the crust. Everything is present in equal amounts, but I personally feel there is too much of everything. One quick peek into my vast archives of past pizza pics reminded me that Luciano’s is just as generous with the addition of fresh toppings as they are with the core ingredients.

I thought this to be a slightly dangerous pie as once you a bite through the thick strata of cheese and toppings, you then have to worry about the deep reservoirs of scalding red sauce squirting out the sides of your slice or down your chin. I, for one, quickly opted for a knife and fork, as things were getting messy. Tasty, but messy.

In all fairness, it has taken me a LONG time to post this review and I should go back to check to sample another pizza and my facts. A Zealot's work is never done.

Gavin

Happy Joe's Pizza and Ice Cream Parlor - Cedar Rapids, IA

2006-08-01T14:03:00.000-06:00

3419 16th Avenue SW
Cedar Rapids, IA 52404
Phone: 319-396-0626
http://www.happyjoes.com/

Sunday - Thursday 11:00 a.m. - 9:00 p.m.;
Friday and Saturday 11:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m.

Styles of Pizza: Traditional Thin-Crust, Deep-Dish Pan, Chicago-Style
Sauces: "Original", Deep-Dish Pan Sauce, Taco, Italian, BBQ, Alfredo, or Nacho Cheese
Of note: Most locations also serve liquor (helps to deal with the kiddie birthday parties in the next room).

Tasty Tidbit: You say it's your birthday? Happy Joe's believes that all birthdays are special. Let them know and you'll get a giant ice cream sundae for dessert.

Review: My most recent trip to Happy Joe's was about a month ago and I have been putting off writing this review ever since. Why? Simply because I don't have enough words in my vocabulary to describe what it feels like to walk through the doors and into pizza heaven.

Happy Joe's Pizza and Ice Cream Parlor is a fairly common midwest chain with over 60 locations in six states (Iowa, Illinois, Minnesota, Missouri, North Dakota and Wisconsin). As a child, Happy Joe's was the first pizza I ever tasted and it's thanks to them that I'm such a zealot today. Birthday parties, family events, and ordinary pizza nights were all celebrated with the help of Happy Joe's. In fact, in the early days of dating my future husband, I took him to Happy Joe's on his very first visit to Iowa. The jury's out, but I'm pretty sure the allure of returning twice a year for great pizza was a primary factor when he proposed.

Recognizing the fact that we have such a long history together, I thought my Happy Joe's review might be a little biased. So, I returned with an open mind, a notebook, and a camera to determine once and for all - is it REALLY the best pizza ever?

The menu at Happy Joe's touts your typical pizza fare, but has some lovely surprises as well. "Traditional" pizza lovers might be taken aback to see such specialty pizzas as Happy Joe Special (ham and sauerkraut), Taco pizza, or a Spaghetti Pizza, but every 'za here is done deliciously.

Our most recent visit took us to one of two locations in Cedar Rapids. Being closer to the airport (and our first stop after we arrived in town) it's not the location we'd typically go to, so I was excited to try my objective review on a new joint. We ordered a large Happy Joe Special, a staple for any of our visits, and a Little Joe with onion, pepperoni and sausage. We got there a little after 1:00, right when the all-you-can-eat pizza lunch buffet was ending, and had our choice of tables. (You read that right - an all-you-can-eat pizza buffet. Did I say this is pizza heaven or what?) Soda is served at a do-it-yourself fountain and refills are free and unlimited, so I filled up on Cherry Coke and waited patiently.

The pizzas were delivered in about 20 minutes, and looked (and smelled) as delicious as ever. Real cheese is used and the toppings are always fresh (although some are sure to debate how "fresh" sauerkraut really can be). The large, 16" 'za was cut into 12 narrow slices - perfect for having "just one more piece" no matter how stuffed you are.

The buttery crust was perfect; crispy but not over-cooked. The sauce, cheese, and toppings were all evenly dispersed, not allowing one taste to over-dominate the others. Even my mom, who doesn't like sauerkraut, took a bite and commented on how tasty it was.

I have no complaints when it comes to this pizza, and wish all could be this good. The only drawback to dining in comes when you walk by the ice cream parlor at the end and are too darn full for dessert.

Skeptical? Try for yourself. For a $50 delivery charge with a minimum of three large pizzas (it's cheaper than gas and worth every penny!), you can have Happy Joe's delivered right to your door.

Zippity-do-za,
SupaCoo

Waldo Pizza - Kansas City, MO

2006-07-01T15:54:00.000-06:00

7433 Broadway (75th and Wornall)
Kansas City, MO 64114
Phone: 913-363-5242
http://www.waldopizza.net/welcome/
Hours: Sun - Thu 11am - 10pm, Fri & Sat 11am - 11pm

Styles of Pizza: St. Louis Thin Crust, Traditional Hand-Tossed, Honey Whole Wheat
Service Type: Dine In, Delivery, Carry-Out

Standout Tidbit: St. Louis Style Pizza!?

Review: Where's Waldo? It's in Kansas City. And although KC is known for it's BBQ, it may soon be known for pizza. Why? Because, in a word, "that sh!t tastes good".

After a short drive to the "Waldo" neighborhood in Kansas City, my brother (phat pocket j) and I quickly spotted Waldo Pizza. It was a weekday night and there was a small wait. We were greeted with a sign that read, "it's worth the wait". So, we bellied up to the bar, where they have a nice selection of local micro-brews.

Half way through our first Boulevard Pale Ale, we were seated. We jumped right in and ordered an extra large (16") St. Louis Style pie with mushroom, green peppers, chicken. What's St. Louis Style? It's a rich blend of NY Cheddar, Provolone, Swiss, and Mozzarella on an extra thin crispy crust glazed with garlic butter and a light touch of sauce.

It was good. The crust was thin, crisp on the outside - but you could still fold a slice. The blend of cheeses was great. and not too cheesey. The toppings were fresh. I barely noticed the sauce (they weren't kiddin' when they said "light touch of sauce". It wasn't a "white pie", the hint of sauce takes the edge off of the cheese.

I spied the table next to us. They had one of the Honey Whole Wheat crusted pies. It looked good, too. Now that I know where to find Waldo, it's safe to say that I'll be back.

- shawniscool (with phat pocket j)

Beniamino's Chicago Pizzeria- Denver, CO

2006-06-20T14:49:00.000-06:00

*CLOSED*

1 Broadway
Suite 108B
Denver, CO 80203
http://www.beniaminos.com/

Styles of pizza: Chicago-Style stuffed crust, thin-crust “flat pies” and slices
Service: Dine-in / counter, carry-out, take home half-baked pies, delivery

Review: When Westword – our local, independent newspaper – comes out with their “Best of Denver” every year, the first thing I do is check out their various pizza picks. Since SupaCoo has already covered the pick for “best” NY-style pie for 2006, I took it upon myself to check out Beniamino’s, the “thick crust” title winner for both 2005 and 2006.

Located at the corner of Broadway and Ellsworth, Beniamino’s is in a great spot for someone who is hitting the vintage “SoBo” shops, hungry after a movie at the Mayan Theater, or stumbling through the middle of the Broadway Bar Crawl. The restaurant is clean and has an open feel, with maybe a dozen small tables sprinkled throughout. The walls display a mix of Chicago paraphernalia, local concert flyers, and modern paintings.

Ben Guest, the head honcho at Beniamino’s, will proudly let you know that he has received a bevy of “Best Thick Crust/Chicago Pizza” accolades since opening a couple of years ago. He really lights up, though, when he breaks out his 50-year-old, well-worn, deep dish pans. He credits the pans with his ability to make a true south-side Chicago pie unlike anyone else in Denver.

Being a vegetarian, I couldn’t take up Ben’s suggestion to try his favorite combo – any volunteers? – a sausage, spinach, and jalapeño-stuffed crust pie. I have previously tried his “secret recipe” spinach on a “flat pie,” and can’t honestly say I was a fan. Maybe the healthy dose of nutmeg mixes better with the heat of jalapeños. Next time perhaps…

This visit, we settled on a 14” (large) stuffed crust pie filled with veggies. The pizza arrived after the requisite 30 minute baking time in the traditional oven (no conveyor belts here). The high, golden walls of crust contained a pool of sauce that had been ladled on top of the “upper crust.” The rest of the fresh ingredients (olives, green peppers, tomatoes, and mushrooms) were all safely tucked away between the top and bottom layers of crust (much like in a calzone), where they retained their moisture and mixed with a thick, soft layer of tasty mozzarella.

The sauce was slightly seasoned, tasted very fresh and “tomatoey,” and had a hint of sweetness. Ben applies the sauce on top at the beginning of the baking. This prevents the upper crust from baking to the same degree as the rest of the shell. Although I was fine with it, a couple fellow Zealots were put off by the variation in crust texture. For a moment, we were trying to determine if the gooey, unbaked top crust was actually a second layer of cheese. The sides and the bottom crust had a nice, slightly buttered flavor and were firm, evenly browned, and light in texture.

The slices of this stuffed crust za are very thick and clearly meant to at least be started with a fork. I had to argue with my full stomach to just let me finish a second piece. This 14” pie (along with some Greek salads and a few bottled microbrews) filled up 4 adults, and there were still a few slices left over for lunch the next day.

Most of us agreed that this pie deserved a “pretty good” overall rating. Clearly, it was the best true Chicago-style za we had tried in Denver…at least up to this point. A devout Zealot’s work is never done.

- Gavin

Uncle Joe's Pizza and Deli - Las Vegas, NV

2006-05-27T09:33:00.000-06:00

505 Fremont St
Las Vegas, NV 89101
(702) 385-2162
Hours: Fri. & Sat 11am-11pm, Sun.-Thu. 11am-11pm
just a block and a half past the Freemont Street Experience (between Neonopolis and El Cortez Hotel and Casino).

Styles of pizza: New York style thin-crust
Service: Counter, dine-in, carry-out, delivery

Standout tidbit: Downtown Vegas, baby!

Review: Right away we noticed that the special was 2 slices and a canned drink for $3.25. This is a pretty good deal for someone who has just taken a beating at the blackjack tables and forgot to ask for a comped buffet. The four of us sauntered in around 9pm on our way to the double-deck tables at the El Cortez. We placed our orders, selected our canned sodas out of the cooler and waited about 8-10 minutes for our slices to get reheated.

I found the atmosphere to be pretty suitable for a joint named Uncle Joe’s. It was narrow with most of the front of the place being taken up with the counter and “kitchen”. The lighting was dimmed and the walls were painted orange, which made the restaurant seem dingy. The only signs of “character” were the black and white checkered floor and a few Tiffany-style-“we’re just like Shakey’s” lights hanging from the ceiling.

My impressions of the pizza itself were mixed from start to finish. I ordered a cheese slice and a mushroom slice and they came out nice and super-thin. The plain slice looked tasty with a glossy, even mix of cheese and sauce, but I was a little put off by the obviously canned mushrooms on my second slice. Phat Pocket J-Dogg’s pepperoni slices seemed to have good coverage, but I can’t speak to the taste. Although baked on a screen, the crust had a good texture and was cooked well, but seemed flavorless. The cheese tasted nice, but might be too greasy for some. I am assuming the sauce came out of a can and I felt it relied on salt too much for seasoning.

While a couple members in our group thought this was really bad pizza, I didn’t think it was a complete failure. I walked in hungry with a slight beer buzz, and for 3 bucks and some change I walked out full and sober enough to go win $75 in the next 20 minutes at the El Cortez. I don’t recommend making any special trips to Uncle Joe’s, but if you are staying in downtown Vegas, walking around Fremont Street, and drinking either a fruity beverage out of a plastic “yard” with a shoulder strap or a cheap beer out of a clear football, Uncle Joe’s might tide you over if you have that desperate pizza craving.

- Gavin (known around Vegas as "Uncle Jimmy")

Pizza Junction - Greenwood Village, CO

2006-05-19T11:15:00.000-06:00

4666 S. Yosemite St
(Yosemite @ Union)
Greenwood Village, CO
Phone: (303) 221-4004
Fax: (303) 221-4510

Styles of pizza: Traditional thin-crust
Service: Carry-out, dine-in, counter, delivery

Standout Tidbit: Everything's better with Strawberry fountain soda. Yum!

Review: Five days after reading about Pizza Junction winning "Best Pizza of the West"* at the International Pizza Expo, three faithful zealots ventured out for a try. After all, "award winning" and "pizza" are some of our favorite words.

Pizza Junction lives in a 70s-style strip mall just north of the Tech Center. The nondescript interior is plastered with train pictures, clocks, signage, and anything that shouts "CHOO CHOO!" (including a clock that, on the hour, does just that). We strolled up to the counter to place our order for the standard large cheese. We were thrilled to discover that the Junction is one of the few non-NY style places to offer an 18-inch za. The other surprise - a choice of three self-proclaimed "savory sauces" - Traditional, Spicy, and White. After inquiring about the best, we settled on their recommendation of spicy.

Being the only people in the joint we had our pick of the tables. The dining area is cozy (read: small) and contained four small patio tables covered with checkered tablecloths. We sat down and enjoyed our sodas (Pepsi products) while the smell of our pizza baking filled the tiny space. We talked briefly with the owner who told us he'd been perfecting his recipes of sauces and crusts for a few years before recently opening the PJ. The menu sports your typical pizza-joint toppings, with the addition of one unique item: cashews. We were enlightened to learn that "true" Hawaiian-style pizza is ham, pineapple, and cashews. (Cashews? Hawaii? Really?)

When our piping hot pizza was delivered it nearly covered the entire surface area of the small table. The cheese ventured nearly all the way to the edge of the crust and was bubbly and browned (almost too much so for our taste). Digging in (caution: HOT!) we munched through a traditional-style crust and discovered a slightly zesty bite to the sauce. The crust was soft and chewy, with a nice flavor. There was no crispiness to it at all. I thought the spicy sauce was fine, but I would like to return to try the traditional since I prefer a more tomato-y flavor. This had a strong "tangy" character in addition to the slight spicy heat. The cheese had a good, not-too-salty taste, but was about four minutes too brown and seemed to get lost among the odd spicy sauce and pillowy crust.

As we finished up our meal, the tiny restaurant started to jam with local high school students. The remaining tables filled up quickly with prepubescent teens and was more than enough incentive for us to refill our sodas and hit the road.

I hope to return to Pizza Junction to give another pizza a try (especially if they add sauerkraut as a topping as I suggested. Luckily, along with the colossal 18-incher, they also offer personal size pizzas that I wouldn't have to share.) In addition, their Cinna-Pie and Caramel Apple Pizzas sound like delicious ways to finish off a meal.

Hit the tracks to the Pizza Junction and let us know what you think!

Za-liciously,
SupaCoo

*editor's note: We should let you know that Pizza Juction won their award for the Train Wreck pie, with 3 cheeses, sausage, bacon, onion green peppers, and pineapple. - G

Big Bill's New York Pizza - Centennial, CO

2006-04-07T13:05:00.000-06:00

8243 S. Holly St.
Centennial, CO
Phone: (303)741-9245

Styles of pizza: New York-style thin crust, Sicilian thick crust
Service: dine-in counter service, carry-out

Standout tidbit: Avoid the free cookies as you exit. If you need sweet stuff, go for the straight-outta-Brooklyn Drakes Cakes displayed throughout the joint.

Review: After much great za lately, I was excited to try the proclaimed best NY-style pizza of 2006. Being the NY-style pizza lover that I am, and finding Big Bill's to be near my suburban office, I couldn't wait to try it out. However, I think someone over at Westword must have had the munchies when they picked this one. I don't claim to know where the best NY Style pizza in Denver is, but Big Bill's CAN NOT be the best. Don't get me wrong - I'm not saying Big Bill's is bad, per se. But to be the best - I mean, that's setting some lofty expectations.

We headed over for a lunch-time za about a week after "the best" rating came out. It's one of those typical suburban strip mall pizza joints, with a blandish interior (think plastic wood tables and chairs stolen from Shakey's) and random NYC-related sports crap.

Big Bill's large pizzas are only 16", and four of us usually split an 18-incher at Anthony's. So we warmed up with large salads ($3.25) and tasty garlic knots ($3.99 for a dozen). The knots were good, slightly salty/garlicy and the marinara sauce was delish as well. So far, so good. The menu also offers calzones, and anything that looks or sounds remotely Italian.

After a short wait, out came our piping hot fresh cheese za. We dug in eagerly. My first slice had somehow been missed by the sauce fairy as the red stuff was really sparse. (The second slice was better in that regards, and the sauce was interesting - slightly sweet - once I got some.) The crust was crunchy and cracker-like, which was probably because it had to hold its weight against the rivers of oozing grease. But almost too crunchy, in a disturbing "Am I going to chip my tooth?" way. The amount of cheese was a little on the skimpy side, with a small spattering of oregano sprinkled on and baked in to top it all off. The pizza was a little more on the "well done" side, when I prefer medium doneness (perhaps explaining the crunch?).

(Oh, and that Westword review? It lies when it says the slices are foldable. NO FOLDING HERE! Did those guys even TRY this place? Or did they just see "New York" in the restaurant name and deem them worthy?)

Overall, the pizza was fine - really more forgettable than memorable. But it was pizza, and all Zealots know that some pizza is better than no pizza at all.

Zas truly,
SupaCoo

New York Pizza and Pasta - Las Vegas, NV

2006-04-03T11:46:00.000-06:00

2400 S Jones Blvd
# 13
Las Vegas, NV 89146
Phone: (702) 871-1159
Hours: Daily 11am-9:30pm

Styles of pizza: New York-style thin crust
Service: Wait staff dine-in, carry-out

Standout tidbit: A few miles West of the strip on the NE corner of Sahara and Jones Rd.

Review: The open kitchen is behind a black and white-tiled counter on your right when you walk in the door. It looks like NYP&P originally took up one unit in this strip mall, but recently expanded into 2 more dining areas. The entry side looks a little more cluttered and well-worn than the other two. This is where family and day-long regulars hang out with the owners and kitchen staff during slow times. The remaining two dining areas are spotless with bright white walls and a fake rose on each black, clean, institutional-style table. Framed posters of various Manhattan sights adorn the walls. The bathroom was immaculate and we all enjoyed the nice touch of an artificial tree in the corner opposite of the toilet.

After checking the menu, all four of us settled on the lunch special of a salad, cheese slice, and drink for about $5. It was about 2pm so the lunch rush was over. I guess they had to make a fresh pie (no complaints here) because we were told by the owner that it would take a little time, but it would be worth it. We devoured our plain, wet, boring iceberg salads fairly quickly. We did note that the menu listed other, non-lunch-special salads with a wide range of ingredients. We waited another 15 minutes or so after the salad bowls were taken away for the slices to show up on our table. Shawn was just about to slip over the “hungry/grumpy” edge, but, when they did arrive, all was forgiven.

The slices were a good size (although I have never known a slice to be “too big”), and were served on cool, aluminum plates instead of the standard scalloped paper type. The crust was very thin, slightly salty, foldable and was browned with some slight charring. The interior maintained a good softness while the exterior had a slight crisp to it. The ratio of cheese to sauce was just to our liking and both were very flavorful. The fresh-tasting sauce had a nice texture and was lightly herbed. The cheese provided a slight amount of grease. Shawn was heard claiming, “now, I can eat a LOT of this pizza.”

Hands down, this was the most authentic NY-style, and best pizza we had in Sin City. If you have a need for pizza in Vegas, and a method of transportation away from the strip, this is the place. I still need to try a whole pie as well as sample some toppings, so I’ll be renting a car on my next visit as well.

Gavin

Boston Pizza - Las Vegas, NV

2006-03-31T11:26:00.000-07:00

1507 S. Las Vegas Blvd.
Las Vegas, NV 89104
Phone: (702) 385-2595
Fax: (702) 386-6921
Hours: Daily 10am - 4am

Styles of pizza: Traditional thin crust
Service: Counter dine-in, carry-out, delivery, catering

Review: Boston Pizza is located on Las Vegas Blvd, a couple blocks north of the Stratosphere. It is a low, white, stucco building with “Boston Pizza” painted directly on the outside walls in bright blue lettering. Next door, across the parking lot, sits Olympic Gardens, the famous Vegas strip club. Apparently “Papa Pete” owns Boston Pizza, the “OG”, and pretty much the rest of the block. There is even a mural on a wall inside with a cartoon depiction of Pete’s journey to Vegas from the East coast to start his little “empire”.

There are only two windows on the building, and the first time I saw BP from the outside, I thought two things. #1) it looks closed. #2) it looks like the kind of place you would go to find old replacement hubcaps for your vintage Oldsmobile. The inside of the joint reminded us of a snack bar in an old-school roller rink or bowling alley. The carpet was old and looked like it was acquired at a casino carpet remnant sale. The bathrooms got forceful “thumbs down” from all Zealots in attendance. Like the other independent, away-from-the-strip, pizzerias we visited, Boston Pizza was pretty smoky, even though there was only one other occupied table at 2:30 in the afternoon. We did not notice any posted non-smoking section.

The pizza menu is fairly standard with small, medium, and large (16”) pies are available with all the usual toppings. They do not appear to do offer individual slices. The prices are decent and a 16” large za with one topping goes for just over $12. Maybe it is the proximity to another strip club but BP, like Daddy’s reviewed earlier, had a menu with offerings far away from just pizza. At Boston Pizza you can order beef or cheese steak sandwiches, grinders/subs, pastas and calzones, gyros, burgers, fish, wings, soups, and much more. For me, this is usually a sign that I won’t be able to count on this place for high quality pizza as they are concentrating on reaching a much wider market. This wasn’t going to sway us though, and Boston Pizza didn’t disappoint… my theory at least.

When we stepped up to the window/counter to order our cheese pie, I got the impression we were intruding on the staff’s slow afternoon, as they seemed frustrated to take the order. Maybe they are just anti-tourists – it could be that I was a little snap-happy with my camera.

Although being incredibly hot at first, the pie seemed undercooked on top. The sauce tasted OK, but not overly fresh and we guess that it was probably canned (we are not positive, though). The cheese had a decent flavor and a nice amount of moisture to it without being overly greasy. The problem was sheer amount of cheese, which dwarfed the normally sufficient amount of sauce. Our thought that it wasn’t quite done being cooked came from the fact that the cheese was extremely gooey, almost to the point of being liquid. The crust had an odd texture to it for pizza. It was very soft reminded us more of a biscuit or dense pancake. This theory was supported by a peek at the underside of a slice, which reveals how even the caramel-like coloring is, just like a well-cooked flapjack on a griddle.

We all considered this to be fairly mediocre za. Several locals we asked claimed Boston Pizza as their favorite and they were sure we tried it on a bad day. We agree that it could have earned better marks with slightly less cheese and another minute or two in the oven, but I’m not sure what could be done about that funky, biscuit crust.

Gavin

La Mamma Restaurant & Pizzeria

2006-03-24T15:40:00.000-07:00

Juan Griego
Isla Margarita
Nueva Esparta, Venezuela

Style of Pizza: One crust fits all - thin and tasty.
Service: Dine-in (or rather, on the beach) only.

Standout Tidbit: Some things just seem to go together. Peanut butter and jelly. Milk and cookies. Venezuela and pizza.

Review: Our most recent vacation took us to a place where baseball trumps soccer, corrupt politicians run the land, and traffic laws are more like suggestions. No, not D.C. This was beautiful Isla Margarita, Venezuela.

A list of things NOT to try in Isla Margarita:

the water
driving
Speedos
the beach without sunscreen

You'll notice pizza missing from this list. Because pizza, my friend, at Mamma's Restaurant in beautiful Juan Griego, is NOT to be missed.

We ate at Mamma's on one of our last days of the trip, after we'd learned important lessons like ordering drinks with no hielo (ice) and that the margaritas on the island are flavored with something akin to ethanol. We had low expectations going in, knowing the kind of American food we'd had so far had not been the best. To be sure, Mamma's is not just a pizza place. Their menu sported offerings of many other specialties with poultry, seafood, pizza and salads each taking up a full page of the menu. With so many items, how could anything rate outstanding?

After enjoying our lush surroundings right on the beach and catching up with the neighboring table (who, oddly, had been on our same flight from Denver), we gestured and pointed our way through the menu. We ordered a small Hawaiian pizza and a small cheese and were prepared for any number of things. (How small is small? Are we talking ittybitty personal-size? Is Hawaiian the same thing here as it is at home? What do these people know about pizza, anyway?) We sipped pina coladas and daquiris (with fresh fruit! Bueno!) as we waited in the open-air restaurant. Toasty, buttery, garlicy bread was brought out as an appetizer which we gobbled down.

And then - behold - the pizzas! The toppings on the Haiwiian were perfect, with cheese bubbling all the way to the edge of the pan. The cheese za was a little more sparse, with sauce sightings through the top layer of cheese, but still quite tasty. The sauce itself was equal parts sweet and equal parts tangy and equal parts delicious. After seeing All. Those. Toppings!, I was worried about the durability of the crust. Pretty, yes, but functional? Thankfully, the crust had some secret sog-proof ingredient that held up well. We found it firm but not a tooth-chipper while still being soft and avoiding the under-cooked doughy results you often get with a plethora of toppings.

To sum up the experience, the dough was tasty, not bland, the sauce tasted as though they'd just plucked the tomatoes off the vine that day (and maybe they had) and the toppings were glorious in their infinite quanities. For the grease to goodness ratio, I'd also rank it favorably.

Although not the world's best pizza, I would venture to say it has the market cornered on the island. A vacation to Isla Margarita will give you beautiful beaches, glorious scenery, and, if you head to La Mamma's, a nice slice of home.

Livin' la pizza loco,
SupaCoo

Anthony's Pizza and Pasta: Colorado Blvd.

2006-03-22T13:31:00.000-07:00

700 Colorado Blvd
Denver, CO 80206
Phone: (303) 316-8651
Website

Styles of Pizza: New York style thin crust, Sicilian thick crust
Service: dine-in counter service, delivery, carry-out

Standout Tidbit: Can't find it? Can't blame ya. Anthony's is tucked away in some sort of odd mall at 7th and Colorado near the CU Hospital. Park in the back, off of 7th Ave, and waltz right in.

Review: I have a problem with pizza.

In the past three months, I have eaten pizza on three continents. I have eaten a myriad of odd toppings. Thousands of calories consumed. And each time I eat pizza I say "Sure Gavin, I'll write a review." But the astute reader will notice that this is my first review.

Yes people, I have been eating pizza and NOT reviewing it. Until, that is, I went to Anthony's Pizza on Colorado Blvd. in Denver this week. Now, my song has changed. The pizza I enjoyed was too good to not review.

Anthony's has a slew of locations throughout Denver, including the Denver Tech Center, where I often (too often by the looks of it) lunch. However, each location is independently owned, and service (and taste) vary from location to location.

Anthony's za is fairly typical of "real" New York style pizza. A large pizza features eight flop-over-your-plate sized slices. The cheese pizza we had this visit was darn near perfect. The crust is thin and tasty (although I thought the butt of the crust was a wee bit dry for my liking). I found the sauce not too sweet, not too bland, and most importantly not too chunky. They top the pizza just right - not weighted down, but definitely not skimpy - an evenly-layered temptation of treats for your tongue.

But alas, nothing's perfect. The bottom of the pizza was so floury (is that a word?) that I had flour all over myself. (I wasn't the only one who thought that.) It's a no-frills joint - the paper plates soak up the grease nicely, but otherwise seem cheap. You order, take a number, fill your own drink, and sit in bright, garish booths to wait. But with this price and a taste that is tough to beat, I'd say they're putting enough effort into the things that matter.

In spite of its chain status, Anthony's serves up a piping hot, grease-laden, delicious pie time after time. For a consistently good pizza, I'd recommend it is one of the better options in the Denver area.

Viva la za!
SupaCoo

Daddy’s Pizza - Las Vegas, NV

2006-03-22T12:37:00.000-07:00

2103 Western Ave.
Suite A
Las Vegas, NV 89102
(702)-388-0006
Fax: (702)-386-0047
Hours: Mon-Sat 24 hours, Closed Sunday

Style of Pizza: Traditional thin crust
Service: Counter service dine-in, carry-out, delivery

Review: We were exploring some non-tourist areas of Las Vegas, trying to find decent North-South travel routes that didn’t involve the strip or the freeway, when we spotted Daddy’s Pizza, or at least the sign that said “Open 24 Hours,” “Special! Slice and a drink $1.99.” It wasn’t on our list of places to hit, but we figured with a special like that we’d have to give it a try.

We were curious what could keep a Daddy’s open all night in a clearly industrial neighborhood – till we looked across the street. It turns out that Daddy’s Pizza is right across the street from Cheetah’s, a strip club that is also open 24 hours. Now we know…

Upon entering Daddy’s, we were welcomed by bright fluorescent lights, a loud TV, a plastic tree in the corner, and a huge cloud of cigarette smoke. My brother was convinced we had interrupted a local Bulgarian mafia “sit-down, ” as the only patrons in the joint were a table full of chain-smoking, Eastern European men who halted their discussion when we walked in. It seemed like they decided to leave when they realized we were dining in.

Although the menu was packed with Italian fare, Greek dishes, burgers, ribs, subs, chicken, and more (not to mention the white board with a separate menu in Russian), we couldn’t be dissuaded from our mission. We wanted our $1.99 slice and drink. DENIED! It was a daytime-only special clearly meant for local workers. At night they take advantage of the alcohol-soaked strip club patrons by removing the special and not doing slices. They did give us the carry-out discount on a 16” pizza for $5.99. Twenty minutes later we got our piping hot cheese pie, but had to wait a few minutes longer for it to cool down to safe temperatures.

This pizza was a pretty bad gut bomb. Although it clearly looked to be well baked, the almost flavorless “pellet” cheese was overly gooey. There wasn’t nearly enough of the canned sauce and the crust was mediocre. This instantly reminded me of snack bar or discount chain delivery pizza. I haven’t eaten a Domino’s pizza in years, but this was pretty much what I remembered.

Gavin

Sister's Pizza and Mussels - Denver, CO

2006-03-18T19:01:00.000-07:00

2255 Sheridan
Unit D
Edgewater, CO 80214
(303) 233-3132

Style of Pizza: New York thin crust?
Service: Dine-in, carry-out, delivery

Review: Sister's is a fairly new restaurant opened in Denver's Edgewater neighborhood, and overlooks Sloan's Lake from across Sheridan Blvd. I believe it is the newest member of the Naples Group family, along with Heidi's Brooklyn Deli, Soup-n-Juice, and Sushi Hai. We actually didn't go to the location, but rather ordered a 16" cheese pie for delivery at the end of a hectic Friday afternoon.

It took about 50 minutes from order to delivery. During the wait, Robin was heard to say, "this pizza better be good! Although I will probably still eat it if it isn't." That's my girl!!

By the time we got it on the table, the cheese had cooled and congealed into an elastic skin covering the pie. A brief reheat in the oven softened it up nicely and we found the flavor of the cheese to be OK – not awesome, but not all that bad either. It clearly was a slightly better cheese than many discount delivery joints use. The pie was light on the tomato sauce, which had a weird, tapenade-like texture to it. It almost seemed like a course paste, but it didn't taste very tomato-y either – somewhat salty without many herbs or sweetness. The crust was quite thin with a small lip, was foldable, and nicely charred on the bottom, although it was very lacking in flavor.

I didn't have a menu and I can't find a web site, so I don't know how they classify their pizza, but at first glance I would say it could fall into NY-style thin crust. I also know (based on a coupon) that the pies at least go up to 18". For the sake of a complete review, I will stop by the joint someday and sample some za in-house (just don't expect me to sample the mussels). I don't think we will be ordering delivery from Sister's again.

Gavin

Metro Pizza - Las Vegas, NV

2006-03-15T12:23:00.000-07:00

1395 East Tropicana Avenue
Las Vegas, Nevada 89119
(Tropicana & Maryland Parkway)
Phone: (702) 736-1955
Website

Styles of Pizza: New York-style thin crust, stuffed pizzas, thick "Metro Crust
Service: table service dine-in, carry out

Standout Tidbit: The "Pizza Hall of Fame", a series of displays featuring the history of pizza around the walls of the restaurant.

Review: Before heading out to Las Vegas for a long weekend with “the guys,” I did a little research to find some good “off-strip” pizza places to sample. Numerous responses on a few Vegas-related message boards mentioned Metro Pizza as a favorite. I checked their web site and it seems that Metro Pizza has received many “Best of...” awards since they opened their first location in 1980. I quickly put a trip to Metro at the top of the list of places to try. It helps that it is quite easy to get to from the airport. Just take Paradise Road to Tropicana Road and head East for a mile or so to Maryland Parkway.

Walking in the door I was surprised by what greeted me. I guess I was expecting more of an “old-school” type pizza parlor - maybe kind of dark, maybe a little dingy, maybe a little attitude. Instead, I felt like I had walked into a modified California Pizza Kitchen. The restaurant felt new and was spacious, clean, bustling, family friendly, and a slightly upscale. The happy wait staff was wearing black pants, white shirts, and ties and welcomed us with fresh bread after showing us to our seats. The tables were covered with white butcher paper (with the obligatory crayons, of course). The open kitchen with the Pizzaiolos and their ovens was along a back wall, for all to see. Another wall featured a full bar with a bright, stylized cityscape mural.

The lunch special featured a personal pizza, salad, and drink, so all four us decided to go that route. When the za arrived, the pies were well cooked. The mildly-flavored crust was pretty thin and had some nice bubbling and charring. The sauce had a good, fresh taste, and a nice texture to it that wasn’t too smooth. The cheese was a little saltier than I like, but overall, the first slice was a pleasant one. The issue we all had with Metro’s pizza was the fact that it was REALLY greasy. Normally, I am one who enjoys the little orange drippings, which can be a sign of a high butter fat content in the cheese. This was a little too much though. When the pizzas arrived the crusts were nice and crisp on the outside. In a few minutes they were quite soggy from the pool underneath. The worst was my brother’s pizza. He had ordered pepperoni and couldn’t eat more than 3 small slices due to the overpowering grease factor. I think I got through one more than he, before the film on the roof of my mouth was too much to continue.

We were concerned that this was what many consider to be the Best Pizza in Las Vegas. The restaurant certainly was crowded with both business lunchers and family-types. Perhaps I will stop in again on my next trip and try something other than the special. They apparently cook a a variety of pizza styles. I guess it is possibly that they don't offer up lunchtime discounts on their best offerings. For this trip, however, we were SO done with Metro. I really needed to go brush my tongue.

Gavin

Joe’s New York Pizza - Las Vegas, NV

2006-03-15T12:15:00.000-07:00

4480 Paradise Road
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 792-9001

Style of Pizza: New York-style thin crust
Service: counter service dine-in, carry-out, delivery

Standout Tidbit: "10 Varieties Available by the Slice Daily!" Other locations back East in New Hampshire.

Review: Joe’s was the first pizza place we hit after landing in Vegas. It was easy to find as it is across from the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino on Paradise Road. We arrived a little after 11am and this counter-style establishment was clean (including the bathrooms), the staff was friendly, and the glass display case on the counter was packed with a good variety of seemingly fresh pies for slices. They claim to offer “10 different pizza slices available each day” for their “No Delay Lunch.” The menu also offers salads, “monster calzones”, and more than a dozen “specialty” pies, including 2 white pizzas and no less than 5 pizzas with chicken. The sizes of pies range from 12” up to 19”.

Even though we were pretty hungry, we only ordered one slice each. We knew we would be going to another restaurant after picking up another member of the group at the airport an hour and a half later. After ordering, our slices were placed on screens and slipped into the rotating carousel pizza oven for re-heating.

Joe’s slices are quite thin and foldable, although not as large as I usually expect from a NY-style counter joint. We found the cheese to be tasty, not-too-salty, and only slightly greasy, which is fine by me. The veggie toppings were fresh (mushrooms, tomatoes, garlic), and my brother seemed to like his ham and pineapple slice quite a bit. The take-out menu states their sauce and dough are made fresh every day. The sauce was flavorful with nice herbs that don’t overpower the tomatoes. The subtly–flavored crust seemed nicely-browned, crispy outside, and soft and chewy inside with some decent bubble holes within.

We left Joe’s on our first morning in Vegas feeling we had just eaten some pretty good pizza. If that had been our lunch, instead of a pre-lunch snack, we might have been a little grumpy about the size. But, for now, we were good.

We stopped by Joe’s again on our way to the airport 3 days later. It was about 3:30 in the afternoon and we found the choices quite a bit scarcer as far as slices went. There were nowhere near 10 options available. We also thought they seemed a little dryer, which would make sense if they had been sitting out for a bit. This visit, we were troubled by the fact that some of the slices had a HUGE lip that would encroach up to 2 inches into the pie. I half wondered if they had run out of ingredients and made a 12” za on a 19” crust.

Our overall impression after two visits was that the pizza was tasty, but a little inconsistent as far as the execution goes.

Gavin

Benny Blanco's Slice of the Bronx - Denver, CO

2006-02-13T11:13:00.000-07:00

616 E 13th Avenue
Denver, CO 80203
Phone: (303) 831-1346
info@bennyblancos.com
http://www.bennyblancos.com/

Style of Pizza: New York-style thin crust (slices and whole pies)
Service: carry-out, delivery

Standout Tidbit: As they claim on the website, "The Largest, Latest Pie in Town!"

Review: This should be a short and sweet review, but that's appropriate considering a trip to Benny Blanco's can be very brief. There is no atmosphere to speak of at this tiny, Capital Hill, counter joint. All there is to Benny Blanco's is a kitchen with a small counter one step from the front door. You just walk in, place your order, and get out. If you order a whole pie during the day, you can go next door and shop for music at Wax Trax while it cooks. There is a TV mounted on the wall, but I get the feeling that is more for the benefit of the pizza makers behind the counter.

Benny Blanco's pizza tastes pretty good, but there are a couple factors that can kick the ranking a little higher. The first is that the medium sized za is 18" while their large is a whopping 20". As far as I know right now, this is the largest in town since Papa Keno's left town and took their mammoth 26" pizza with them. The second plus is that they are open and delivering till midnight Sunday and Monday, and till 3am the rest of the week.

As a good New York-style pizza should be, the crust is pretty thin and the larger slices fold nicely. The toppings seem fresh and spread evenly and in a decent quantity, while the sauce-to-cheese ratio was quite nice. Everything had a good flavor to it, although the sauce seemed to slightly edge on the salty side.

Without the benefit of any seating, whole pies must be carried out or delivered, so slight cooling is expected. A Benny Blanco's pie remains quite tasty as the heat diminishes.

In summary, this is good NY-style pizza that graduates to great when you have a craving to satisfy after that late-night concert on Colfax.

Gavin

Peppino's Pizzeria & Restaurant

2006-02-09T14:54:00.001-07:00

12201 E Arapahoe Rd
Suite A1
Centennial, CO 80112-3918
(303) 799-9409

Styles of Pizza: Thin crust (slices or whole)
Service: Counter service, carry-out

Standout Tidbits: Hmmmm... not so much.

Review: Peppino's is located in a standard, unassuming strip mall-style building that looks like it could have been built anytime between now and 1980. The state of the restaurant inside tells you that it probably opened closer to the 80's, and the Peppino's staff hasn't changed anything or done any fixing up since then. I wouldn't go as far as to say the place was dirty, but, it certainly wasn't fresh and clean. The ceiling tiles were way past yellow and well into brown. The vinyl booths had deep dips in the seats. The ceiling fan had mismatched light bulbs and its blades were wilting more than the fake flowers on the tables.

The team of older Italian gentlemen behind the counter didn't do much to warm our hearts to this place. In fact, they didn't do much at all besides guard the soda fountain against refills and pressure us to make a choice and move down the line. Along the line you can pick from the pastas, iceberg salads, or slices under the glass display. Customers can also order fresh, whole pies or calzones. We opted for a large za with mushrooms and made our way to the droopy booth.

Although we were initially unimpressed with Peppino's, we started adding things up. The pizza oven was well-used. There were thin slices behind glass. The guys behind the counter were grumpy. The table cloths were plastic and red-checkered. Had we stumbled on a true "old-school" pizza joint? Were we about to be treated to some great, East-Coast za?

The pie itself was unimpressively fitting for the place. As soon as it arrived we were aware of the canned 'shrooms. They were laid too thickly on the entire pizza and then buried under just as much cheese. Although the cheese tasted ok, it was overly chewy and too elastic when trying to separate one slice from the rest.

Please don't misunderstand me here. This was not like a nice, gooey slice where the hot cheese is almost dripping. This was closer to the consistency of stretched Silly Putty. Silly Putty that at least tasted ok.

The canned mushrooms didn't seem very cooked and were quite rubbery. Underneath them was a minimal amount of red sauce, which, like the cheese, tasted just ok. I really have no big complaints about the crust. It had a decent taste and wasn't too crisp or too chewy.

When we first arrived, it was early in the lunch period, and we were almost the only ones there. When we left, the place was about 60% full. The curious thing was that it didn't seem like anyone was talking or enjoying their lunchtime. It just looked like they were there to eat out of necessity, before heading back to their hopefully more enjoyable jobs.

Overall, Peppino's gets a sub-ok rating. 2 out of 5 whatevers (if we had a ranking system established). I have no idea how the pasta or calzones are, but I also have no real desire to go back and find out.

Gavin

Enzo's End Pizzeria

2006-01-26T20:32:00.000-07:00

3424 East Colfax Avenue
Denver, CO 80206
303-355-4700
http://enzosend.com
Hours: 4:30-11pm (midnight on Fri & Sat), closed Tuesday

Style(s) of Pizza: Thin Crust Whole Pies (not by the slice)
Service: Counter, Dine-in, Take Out, Delivery (limited area)

Standout Tidbit: Claims to be "Denver's Best Thin Pizza"

Dine-in Atmosphere: For those of us that remember our old pizza haunts back before we could drink, where you'd go in, sit at a table with a checkerboard tablecloth and order cokes while you waited for your pizza to come out on a round metal tray. You know, the old-school pizza place: simple walls, magazines on a counter and maybe some sort of cheesey relic in the corner that was never used but you knew probably still worked. Well that's Enzo's. Just a place to go and eat a pizza with friends where you order a couple different pies, try a piece of each until you find your favorite and then proceed to bust balls and laugh at one another. It also is connected to a great little dive bar (PS Lounge) where you can either sit and wait with a beer for your pizza to be done or you can just have the pizza brought over to you so you don't have to leave the bar. It's a great set up. The only thing missing is one or two coffeetable style arcade games, like Galaga or Ms. Pacman, that you can play to pass the time as well. Well I guess we can't have everything.

Review: Enzo's is located on East Colfax Avenue and Madison Street, a couple blocks east of the Bluebird Theater and nearby a bunch of new bars and restaurants that have popped-up over the last couple of years. It's a good starting point for a night on Colfax hitting bars, getting a quick bite before a show at the Bluebird or just dining in and maybe hanging out listening to the high-quality jukebox at it's atttached bar, The PS Lounge. In any of those cases, you cannot go wrong including Enzo's into your plans for the night.

Full disclosure: I have to say that I probably order a pizza from Enzo's once a week. Sometimes I go two but never three weeks between visits. If that doesn't give you an idea of what I think about Enzo's pizza, then there is no help for you. But to be helpful I'll say this: It is not only "Denver's Best Thin Pizza," it's Denver's Best Pizza.

Sure, other places have good thin pizza but none of them have the combination of factors that puts Enzo's at the top of the pizza in Denver class. Enzo's has the thin crust, I think that has been established but it's not just that it's thin, it is crunchy as well, bording on burnt in some spots. The crust also has the little bubbles that form during baking, always a sure sign of a quality thin crust. And it's foldable, another must have for those of us that love the New York style.

But like I said, Enzo's pizza has a combination of factors that makes it great. Along with the fantastic crust, it has it's base, marinara-style sauce that is just spicy enough to get your attention but not so much so that it overwhelms the flavors of the toppings you put on. And it is perfectly applied to the dough, where it doesn't drip on you while you eat it. For me, that's a huge plus.

Now for the toppings. Enzo's has a wide selection of toppings that make it impossible to have the same pizza for quite awhile if you so choose. Along with the standard sausage, pepperoni, mushroom, black olive, etc toppings, Enzo's has five different styles of cheese available for those times when one layer of Mozzarella just won't cut it and a good selection of not so typical toppings that everyone has to try at some point in their pizza eating life. Veggies such as spinach, red peppers, roasted eggplant and articoke hearts make for an interesting flavor when coupled with jalapeno's, green chiles or meatballs.

Oh, and let me take some time out to talk about the meatballs that Enzo's serves. I've looked long and hard for a pizzeria that prepares a meatball for a pizza properly and Enzo's is that pizzeria. Most places put on their meatballs right on top from the start of the baking process. This creates a two-fold problem: 1) The meatballs, while warm, are now hard on the outside from being overcooked, and 2) all the flavors (spices and whatnot) are cooked out of the meatball. Enzo's takes a little bit different approach in that they put their meatballs on after the pizza has been baking for some time. How long that actually is, I could not tell you, but in any case, their meatballs are cooked perfectly, just like you would expect a meatball to be when you order spaghetti and meatballs at an Italian restaurants.

The finished pizza itself is also a bit different from the more traditional New York style thin crust in that it has very little grease. I know some of you (Gavin) think that that is a travishamocary, but for me, I like it. Don't get me wrong, a greasy pizza is good now and again, but if you want to taste everything on your pizza, the less grease the better.

Enzo's also has a small selection of speciality pizzas that allows eaters to load up on toppings and on most of them, try the lighter white sauce (olive oil, garlic, spices) instead of the traditional red sauce. These pizzas, especially the Pomodoro, really show the range of pizza making that the staff at Enzo's takes great pride in. They are simply some of the best pizzas I have ever had.

Now, you might think that I'm exaggerating. That could be true; it's been know to happen. But I know this: I've been eating pizza for most of my life and not since I was a little kid have I ever had pizza from the same pizzeria for as long as I've been eating at Enzo's. And I've tried to find other pizzerias around me that I could have to mix it up a bit, fearing a burn out on Enzo's. It just hasn't happened yet. Either the crust is a bit too soft and doughy or the sauce is too spicy or not spicy enough or there is too much or not enough cheese. No other pizzeria I've since discovered or gone back to has the complete combination of quality as Enzo's. I simply haven't been able to knock them off their pedestal. I'm not sure I want to.

-Josephus

PizzaExpress: London Bridge

2006-01-10T16:02:00.000-07:00

4 Borough High Street
London Bridge
London SE1 9QQ
Telephone: 020 7407 2995
Hours: Mon-Sun 11:30am to Midnight
Website

Styles of Pizza: Indivudual thin-crust
Service: Table service, carry-out (I assume)

Standout Tidbits: Ummm,... it's in London (that's a high point for us Yanks). Actually, the stylish décor stood out to us.

Review: With a name like "PizzaExpress" you would totally expect a fast-food or delivery joint. Maybe so in the US. Across the pond in the UK, PizzaExpress is a chain of pseudo-fancy pizza restaurants you will see ALL over London. Seriously, they are about as prevalent as McDonald's is over here.

All of the PizzaExpress locations we saw were different in their layout and size. Some were small and intimate, while others were a little more open with two stories of seating. There is even one location in SoHo that doubles as a jazz club. All of the locations are similar in that they all have a subtle, simple elegance. The décor is made up of light colors on the walls, dark woods, large windows, and contemporary art sprinkled throughout. Most of the tables were small, for two, but could be easily rearranged for more. There were fresh flowers, clean wine glasses, and white cloth napkins (a good indicator by my mother's standards) on the tables. It seems that all had full bars with prominent displays for their wine selections.

After an afternoon spent in the Tate Modern broadening our artistic horizons, Robin and I walked along the South Bank of the Thames and popped into the PizzaExpress London Bridge location for a late lunch. The crowd was very light at 15.30 (3:30pm) till several groups of teenagers, adolescents, and a few parents arrived to create two large tables of 12 apiece. We thought it interesting that so many youngsters were attracted to what we thought was a more "grown-up" establishment.

The menu boasts many "named" thin-crust pies and I didn't see any information for customers to build their own. All of the pizzas are personal-sized at 12" and are served uncut, with a steak knife on the side. Robin ordered the Bufalita, a pesto sauce pizza with buffalo mozzarella, beef tomatoes, garlic, basil, and rocket (arugula). Sticking to my simple tastes, I got the Mushroom pizza with their "special red sauce". All of the ingredients on both of our pizzas were very fresh.

Robin enjoyed hers quite a bit and found it to be somewhat flavorful. I agreed that hers had much more character, although there really was a LOT of rocket on top. Frankly, I found the sauce on mine to be a little bland. The cheese was fair, the mushrooms were subtly tasty, and black pepper had been ground and sprinkled on top, which added a nice touch. When I finally got his attention, I did ask the waiter for a little salt to enhance the second half of my pie. The slightly-flavored crust was thin, but not overly so. Although it was slightly browned around the edges, the dough seemed a little undercooked, and, as a result, our self-cut slices were a little limp.

Robin kinda liked her "fancy" pizza and would give it "good" marks, while I felt that my basic red sauce pie was a little lacking in flavor and only deserves a "forgettable, but it'll do in a pinch" ranking. Many of the other pizzas on the menu boasted obviously spicier, and more flavorful, toppings than the ones we ordered. We had no carnivores with us to sample any of the pies with meat or anchovies.

As I have mentioned before, I feel the foundation of a pizza is the crust, sauce, and cheese and if I can't rely on those three to combine and create a tasty za, then there's really no need to sample other ingredients. Hmmmm, perhaps I should clarify that statement: I feel safe occasionally ordering mushrooms on a new pizza, since I have never known them to overpower the taste of the aforementioned "foundation."

Overall, we both enjoyed the vibe of the restaurant and we were also surprised by the nice presentation and freshness of the food coming from such a widespread franchise. After all of this, however, I left feeling completely unimpressed with the pizza while Robin was only lukewarm about it... and isn't the pizza what this is all about?

Gavin

Abo's Pizza of Centennial

2005-12-12T13:58:00.000-07:00

7475-6 E. Arapahoe Rd.
Centennial, CO 80112
303-468-4700
303-468-4703 (fax)
Website

Styles of Pizza: New York-style thin crust
Servce: counter, carry-out, delivery

Standout Tidbits: Alarmingly bad pizza

Review: I was so excited to learn there was an Abo's Pizza near my office. There aren't many places around the office to get decent pizza that wasn't delivery-only. Also, I heard such good things about Abo's. It has received some Best of Boulder awards, there are some good reviews online for other locations, and it is supposedly authentic NY-style pizza. So, fellow founding Zealot, Eric, and I set out to give the place a shot.

Allow me to set the scene...

This Abo's location is set back in a shopping center at the corner of Arapahoe and Quebec. The location is a good size and has plenty of seating. All in all it looks fairly new, clean, and what I think is overly "fancy" for a NY-style, counter-service pizza joint. Instead of a half-full cooler with a couple Coke products and one standard brand of bottled water, there is a cooler full of fancy waters, juices, and teas, as well as another cooler on the counter with pre-packaged, individual Ben & Jerry's ice cream treats. The blackboard menu is ornately hand-painted and in the back are SIX beautiful, gleaming pizza ovens. On all of the tables are custom, artsy-fartsy, welded iron napkin and condiment holders. As I said, it is a little more than I expected. Upon taking all this in, Eric and I were feeling optimistic.

Abo's offers up NY-style pies as big as 18 inches and by the slice. The menu features many specialty pies with NY-themed names like "Manhattan", "Soho", and "The Village", a butter sauce za with chicken, spinach, garlic, tomatoes, and artichoke hearts.

We ordered and soon received our food, 2 slices of pepperoni for Eric and 2 cheese for me. I consider the cheese pie to be the foundation of a pizza joint. If you can't get this right, there is no use adding anything on top. The Abo's slices were good-sized, seemingly well cooked, and served on the fine china of a good NY-style pizza place -- the scalloped-edge, bleached-white, paper plate. Then we took our first bites...

This pizza was horrible. Tasteless. I thought I had accidentally taken a bite out of the plate. I waited a minute to see if maybe the heat of the fresh slice was overwhelming the flavor. I took another bite and decided there wasn't any flavor to be overwhelmed. Next I sampled a little chunk of just cheese on its own, then a dollop of sauce, and finally and bit of bare crust. Besides getting only a hint of tomato from the sauce there was nothing. Bland, seasoning-free, tasteless. Eric felt the same way about his slices with pepperoni. Adding tons of parmesan cheese and red pepper flakes only made the meal taste like spicy cheese from a jar.

I know we should go back a second time to make sure it wasn't a fluke, but I am scared. I sincerely hope not all of the Denver/Boulder area locations are like this, but I went back online afterwards and saw a couple customer reviews of different stores that fell inline with our opinions. I think we will have to at least go check the original Boulder location on the Hill. Wish us luck.

Gavin

Wyman's No.5

2005-12-11T13:28:00.000-07:00

2037 East 13th Avenue
Denver, CO 80206
303-996-0842
303-996-0841 (fax)

Styles of Pizza: Pan (claims to be Chicago Style)
Service: table/bar service, carry-out

Standout Tidbits: PBR for HAPPY HOUR! Wyman's is right next to Lik's Ice Cream (formerly Lickety Split) at 13th and Vine.

Review: Wyman's No. 5 is a neighborhood tavern-type establishment located just east of the Capitol Hill neighborhood (and north of Cheeseman Park) in Denver. The decor is dark hardwoods, pool tables, a few stained-glass windows, and several TV's showing various sporting events. The simple menu offers up whole "Chicago Style Pies". In addition to build-your-own options with either red or spinach pesto sauce, there are a series of specialty pies with names like "The Tree Hugger" (pesto & veggies), "The Phat Brando", and the "Dazed & Confused". The menu I saw (and brought home for reference) is just one sheet and didn't even list a salad or dessert. But hey! It's a bar. The staff, or at least the bartender who took our order and brought our beers and pizza, was very pleasant. He even joined in our pie-related conversation when he asked why we were taking pictures of the food.

This was a pretty good tasting pan pizza, but the construction of it reminded me of a regular pan pie, like you would find at Pizza Hut (but tasted far superior). It had a very flavorful, moderately-seasoned sauce, yet, it wasn't quite as chunky with pieces of tomatoes as I normally expect from a Chicago pie. There was a healthy amount of good mozzarella. The main issues I have are with the deepness of the crust and the amount of toppings. The base and sides of the crust were only slightly thicker than that of a tradtional thin crust. This allowed for a "lip" around the edge of the pie that hardly stood above the other ingredients. The amount of toppings were adequate, but certainly not the copious layers we were anticipating.

I visited Wyman's on a Tuesday with another Zealot before we attended our weekly poker game. Our plan was to enjoy a couple $1.50 Happy Hour Pabst Blue Ribbons and get temporarily filled up on a slice or two while we warmed up our poker faces by watching the World Series of Poker. We were hoping to be savoring our leftovers during a mid-tournament break later in the evening. The proportions of this pizza were so "normal", however, that we wound up finishing the whole thing then and there. It turned out ok, as we both got knocked out of the game and went home early. We blamed it on the cheap PBR.

Please let me re-iterate, this is good bar pizza. My only issue is that, in my opinion, I think its' style is being misrepresented. I need to make a point of going out and trying more Chicago-style pizzas, and if I find I have been in error I vow to come back and update this post.

Gavin

Two-Fisted Mario's Pizza

2005-12-10T11:36:00.000-07:00

1626 Market St
Denver, CO 80202
303-623-3523
Hours: 11am-2am Mon-Thu, 11am-3am Fri, 12pm-3am Sat, 12pm-2am Sun

Styles of Pizza: traditional (some call it East Coast-style) thin-crust, Sicillian
Service: counter service, carry-out

Standout Tibits: 1) LOUD staff-picked music at night, which can range from punk, to hardcore, to hip-hop. 2) Instead of calling out your name when your order is up, or giving you a number to place on your table, they give you a large children's toy so they know where to bring your food. Last night we wound up with a Sesame Street kiddie ATM. 3) There are 3 old-school tabletop video games: Centipede, Ms. PacMan, and Asteroids. 4) Mario's is connected, via a heavy black curtain, to Mario's Double Daughter Salatto, a very cool, non-smoking bar/lounge that looks like it was decorated by Edward Gorey or Tim Burton. You can order pizza any time while on the other side of the curtain.

Review: Conveniently located in downtown Denver, Mario's is only a few steps from 16th street mall on Market Street. This joint is good for a quick lunch and great for the late-night bar-hoppers as it is open till 3am on the weekends and till 2am during the week. The menu is straight and to the point: slices or whole pizzas with toppings that don't stray from standard fare, calzones, salad, beer, and sodas.

We went last night at about 11pm after a few cocktails elsewhere and I can honestly say that I have had much better pizza here before. The crust was pretty good, with that just right combination of crispy on the outside and somewhat chewy within. The toppings seemed fresh and tasty but lacking in good coverage. We got the Shrooms and Spin pie which features mushrooms, spinach, and "fresh Transylvanian garlic". There was plenty of spinach, but I couldn't count more than 5 mushroom bits on the whole pie and Robin was halfway into her second slice before she exclaimed "oh, there's the garlic." The sauce wasn't completely flavorless, but I couldn't detect many spices either, and this wasn't one of those sauces where I am happy to let the tomatoes do all the work. The only condiments I could find to enhance the flavor were the little packets of parmesan cheese and crushed red pepper. OH!, my left ear for a dash of salt!

The decor is bright and colorful, but tends to feel like a college freshman's dorm room. This is due in part to the aforementioned music, multi-colored lights, upcoming concert posters, and various stickers peppered about the place. The staff is young, tattooed, and hip and seem to be having a good time when not overly busy, which it can get during the later hours.

Overall, I can just say that Mario's pizza was just OK this time around. We did get a good couple games of Centipede in, and another patron gave me his date's full beer when she decided it was time to start sobering up. I am pretty sure he hadn't slipped the roofie in yet.

Personally, I would rather chill to the DJ music next door and order the pizza from there. Not that I think it would have mattered this night, but we usually do order pizza when hanging out at Double Daughter and have really enjoyed it in the past. Just an off night I guess.

Gavin

Update 01/13/2006:
I hung out at Double Daughter last night with friends and ordered a couple pies. These pizzas were much better than my last visit to Two-Fisted Mario's. The sauce was delicious and I had no issues with the coverage of toppings. Be aware that the jalapños they put on the pies here have quite a bit of heat. Oh yeah, the happy hour drinks till 8pm are a big plus as well. - G

Carl's Italian Restaurant

2005-11-17T20:09:00.000-07:00

3800 W 38th Ave
Denver, CO 80211-1906
Phone: 303-477-1694
Hours: 11am - Midnight Daily

Styles of Pizza : "American" Traditional
Service: dine-in table service, carry-out

Standout Tidbits: Carl’s has been ladling sauce since 1953 and is the home of a giant Italian sandwich dubbed the “Little Immigrant." A carb-packed basket of various crackers comes with all the salads.

A neighborhood institution in Denver’s North Highlands, Carl’s Pizzeria hides out in a humble brick building that parallels a busy 38th Avenue. Note the plate glass bullet holes and faded red carpet as you enter the establishment, and you’ll know you’re in “old school” territory. Ancient red vinyl booths and vine-and-column murals line the walls as the hostess leads Gavin and me back into Carl’s humble depths and leaves us with lunch menus. We find the service a little slow this busy Saturday, but our young, tatooed waitress is friendly and efficient.

We settle in and order a large (14") pie with green peppers, black olives and mushrooms (the menu also offers other Italian fare, such as pasta, calzones and sandwiches). While waiting for our main course, we munch on crunchy iceberg salads and breathe in the “ambiance.” Our fellow diners range from a fledgling family on a road trip to chain-smoking regulars in the next room. Everyone seems to be noisily enjoying their food, and somehow we, too, must find the kitschy surroundings and lack of pretense comforting, since we seem to find ourselves here at least once a month. Maybe the pound of sugar in my chocolate Pepsi is affecting my sound judgment, but I do feel “at home” in this no-frills setting.

Our pizza arrives piping hot and is fairly tasty with a nicely-seasoned but texture-free sauce (not too sweet or salty), and a generous amount of what appear to be fresh toppings and cheese. The mushrooms are happily un-rubber-ish, and the ratio of sauce to cheese is commendable. As for the crust…well…it’s just okay. A little crunchy, perhaps, and not much to it. Frankly, we’ve tried craning our necks to see if they have boxes of Jiffy Crust populating the kitchen area, but no dice.

Nevertheless, we manage to put away our slices without complaint – plus, we’ve found it’s best to eat as much as possible on the premises, since Carl’s pizza doesn’t re-heat very well – even in the oven, the cheese turns translucent and the crust becomes a bit soggy. Sigh. This Saturday, however, we can’t seem to eat an entire pizza pie. We leave with full stomachs and about four slices to spare, still knowing we’ll be back once that odd, old school urge resurfaces next month.

-robin %:-)

Uno Chicago Grill: Westminster

2005-11-14T19:45:00.000-07:00

9310 North Sheridan Blvd
Marketplace at Westminster
Westminster, CO 80031
303-430-0931
303-430-5975 (fax)
Website

Styles of Pizza: Chicago deep dish, flatbread
Service: dine-in table service, carry-out

Standout Tidbits: Not really any to speak of.

Review: I realize that I have gone on public record as stating that my favorite type of pizza is a big, greasy, foldable slice of New York-style thin crust. However, when it comes to the so-called War of Pizza, the battle of NY-style versus Chicago-style, consider me Switzerland. When I say "pizza tastes good," I don't discriminate against style. It's all about substance.

On Easter Sunday 2005, Robin and I found ourselves returning to Denver from a brief, morning trip to Boulder. We were very hungry and couldn't find anything that was open and not packed with a fancy-dressed, post-church, Easter brunch crowd. Driving past Westminster, CO. we thought we were going to have to resign ourselves to Sweet Tomatoes, a huge salad-with-soups-taters-pastas-and-desserts bar (they also have french bread pizza that will be reviewed another time). Nearby, I noticed there were cars outside "Uno Chicago Grill" so we headed in for some deep-dish.

Pizzeria Uno is credited with inventing deep dish pizza in Chicago back in 1943. It became so popular that they were forced to open a second location just across the street which was called Pizzeria Due. Over 60 years later there are 200+ locations across the country.

Pizzeria Uno now operates under the name "Uno Chicago Grill" in what I interpret to be an attempt to tap into that virgin territory of the major-chain-suburb-neighborhood-bar niche. When you walk in the door, you could be walking into a Bennigan's, Applebee's, Chili's, T.G.I. Friday's, etc. The wood may be a little darker, the framed posters may have more of an italian food or Chicago slant, but you get the picture. Simpson's fans can simply think "Uncle Moe's Family Feedbag." A pizza-heavy menu has given way to the standard steaks, ribs, chicken wings, fancy foo-foo cocktails, and crazy desserts fit for a whole family.

Of course we were there for one thing, the pizza. We each ordered a small pizza "for 1." I got a straight-up cheese and tomato sauce pie, and Robin ordered a "Spinoccoli" with spinach and broccoli. I must say that both were delicious.

Uno builds their pies in an order some may not notice or be used to. Instead of going dough, sauce, toppings, and cheese, Uno starts with the dough in the pan, then adds the cheese, then toppings, and finally covers it all with the sauce. True to Chicago-style the cheese and toppings are quite plentiful. Native Chicago-ans will claim that pizza is a meal and meant to be eaten with a fork, and not with your hands, and this pie lives up to that specification.

The crust was very buttery and pastry-like. The oil coating the inside of the pan had made the outer crust slightly browned and crisp while the inner crust was still soft and slightly chewy. The toppings were quite fresh and not overcooked to the point of losing their flavor. The cheese was tasty and the perfect gooeyness. Finally, the sauce was amazing. It was very chunky, without being just tomato chunks, and quite seasoned without losing the full flavor of the tomatoes. Quite often, I have found the sauce on Chicago-style pizzas to be too sweet. This was certainly not the case.

Although the setting wasn't the greatest, the restaurant was clean, the service was good and attentive (how can it not be with only 2 other seated tables in the joint), and the food was exceptional. If there was a location closer to our home, I could see us getting carry-out or even stopping by about as often as we give in to our cravings for Red Robin veggie burgers and shakes (about once every 2 months).

Gavin

Anthony's Pizza & Pasta: Denver Tech Center

2005-11-12T19:12:00.000-07:00

6860 S. Clinton Way
Englewood, CO 80112
303-706-1281
Website

Styles of Pizza: New York style thin crust, Sicilian thick crust
Service: dine-in counter service, delivery, carry-out

Standout Tidbit: Obligatory mural of Manhattan skyline with very creepy, giant-sized, ghost twin towers of the World Trade Center super-imposed over the cityscape. The Statue of Liberty holds an Anthony's pizza box.

Review: I find it quite appropriate that the first entry into the Zealots of Za blog is about a pizzeria that is first in the hearts of many a core Zealot. Although the first Anthony's opened in downtown Denver back in 1984, we did not discover it till the fall of 1995 when several of us were working together nearby. When taking a new job south of Denver near the Tech Center back in 2002, I was overjoyed to learn there was an Anthony's not too far away. Soon I had a regular group making weekly pilgrimages.

Now, about the pizza... Anthony's bills themselves as serving New York style pizza. Based on my very limited exposure to real NY pizza in the Big Apple, I think they do a pretty good job even though they aren't using a coal or wood-fired oven (what many would consider a crucial element for true NY-style). Anthony's dough is tossed high and laid out very thin. When cooked, the crust is slightly crispy on the bottom while still a bit chewy inside. The slices are large and best eaten folded to counter occasional floppiness. The application of toppings is usually generous without burying the pie. The sauce is slightly textured and flavorful with spices, but not to the point that it stands out above the other layers. The cheese is very tasty, and we have been told that it is the high butterfat content that causes the random pools of orange fluid on top of the slices. Fellow Zealot, Robin, calls it grease and tries to pat it away with a napkin, while I simply call it "dippin' sauce". The toppings are generally fresh, with the use of non-canned mushrooms being a good indicator. I should also state here that Anthony's also offers a Sicilian pizza (thick crust) and pasta, however, in my ten years of frequenting various Denver metro locations I have never sampled anything beyond the signature thin crust pizza.

The staff during the day at the DTC location is young and friendly, even during the stressful lunch crowd when the line can reach the door. During these busy times there may be the odd missed order, or a sub-par slice (re-heated too much, or not up to proper "big-as-a-plate" size), but if you mention your dissatisfaction, I have found they are more than willing to rectify the matter. This is NOT the case at all Anthony's locations, as I have heard from other Zealots who will hopefully post their findings here as well.

Based on the occasional inconsistency with slices, I have recently (the past 9 months) taken to ordering a whole pie whenever visiting the DTC location for lunch. This way, my slices are always fresh and I get the pick of the pie for size. The only requirement for me to do this is that I have at least one other person eating with me who is willing to go in on a non-meat pizza. I usually say the leftovers are going home to Robin, even though I conveniently "forget" that she isn't a big fan of the shrooms.

As far as the setting, this location is almost 2 years old (they moved from another spot in the shopping center) and it is kept rather clean. There is quite a bit of seating with about 10 booths and again as many small tables. During the warm times, there is also seating on a patio outside.

To sum up... far more often than not, the DTC Anthony's serves up great slices and outstanding whole pies. I'd rather be downtown at location #1, but this is a fantastic alternative in the meantime.

Gavin